rover 45 diesel pg1 poppes out of reverse

[E_T_V]

I think some people have experimented with aftermarket poly-urethane ones.

However these have a significant issue that they cause a lot of rattle to be transmitted to the inside the car, so I can't recommend their use.

A standard rubber bush the right size would be a better replacement in my opinion as the polyurethane ones are too hard.

The bush shouldn't be a sliding fit, it should be a press fit from memory if indeed removable at all. So it may be worth removing the mount and sealing the bush back into place with a polyurethane sealant (such as sikaflex or tigerseal)./ It'll need to set properly before you reinstall it.

The turbo to downpipe bolts can shear off but usually they are ok. Usually if they are got nice and hot and soaked in penetrating oil then they are ok. I always copper grease them upon replacement though. You can also use brass nuts if you can find them to stop them seizing in future.

[nicko500s]

I have read about the poly bushes for the R75 and agree the results are not good, if you look at the photos i took of the R45 diesel tie bar/engine mount you can see its not a solid bush (it reminds me of a star wars tie fighter)
i think this shape is to allow for the absorbtion that solid and harder poly bushes cant give, so i think sourcing a bush this shape will be difficult, heres the link.
http://s1305.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 3251957173
i have damaged the thread and nut of the lower ball joint while undoing it so it looks like i will have to replace the lower ball joint which means removing the hub & i have just read in the haynes manual that "removal of the hub will necessitate the renewal of the bearings" surly thats not necessary? or perhaps when you seperate the hub the wheel bearing comes apart?

[E_T_V]

The bottom balljoint can be replaced removing the hub complete and knock the old one out and a new one in. (better still press if available).

You don't need to seperate the hub bearing.

If the bush looks in good condition (photos look ok) then I'd just stick it back into the housing as there doesn't look a lot wrong with it. Use silicone for a soft mounting or sikaflex/tigerseal for a stiffer one. It'll need time to cure though.

[nicko500s]

ah yes i see how it works now, i was confused by the ring that sticks out, mind you it looks like it broke off or the garage broke it off to press in the new ball joint, i heard back from the guy rebuilding the gearbox, seems the clutch arm was stiff which was making the clutch pedal stick on the floor & finally jammed which is what you said it might be a few times ETV
(even though i had checked its movement and spent a long time spraying it with wd40 & working the pedal)
also the teeth where broken, well actually the guy said "shredded off" of the reverse cogs and the main shaft oil seal seemed ok, but again as ETV had said it might be, it looks like the off side drive shaft seal could have been leaking & spraying oil into the bell housing and onto the clutch causing it to slip, but i couldnt see that with the gearbox fitted for some reason.
still looks like i will be able to refit it next week and hopfully the LSD will stop the excessive wheel spin.
And found a new rover dealer here in Essex that can get the dog bone/ lower tie bar engine mount and also ordered a new turbo oil feed pipe as mine was wet with oil on the flexable part, perhaps thats normal? but i didnt want to chance it splitting at a later date. im wondering if the gearbox oil will have damaged the fly wheel or do you think it will just burn off?

[E_T_V]

Simply clean the flywheel with sollvent to remove the oil. I also tend to give it a good scrub with some sandpaper to help remove some of the glazing present from the clutch slipping. You'll see burnt spots and fine cracking on the surface if it has got very hot. Both are rarely serious enough to require the flywheel being resurfaced though.

[E_T_V]

also ordered a new turbo oil feed pipe as mine was wet with oil on the flexable part, perhaps thats normal? but i didnt want to chance it splitting at a later date.

No that isn't normal. However oil from the leaking gearbox will be flung around that area so it could be oil from that. Or it could be oil leaking onto it from the turbo itself (a small leak on teh compressor housing is typical too).

However you really don't want that pipe bursting as it'll kill the turbo and shower a hot turbo in hot oil which is never a good idea! That is why most of the oil line is solid with only a small flexible bit to limit the chance of damaging it.

[nicko500s]

Just removed the clutch, it all looks dry, the flywheel looks as good as new, dry, not slippery with no scoring. im wondering if the clutch slipping could have been due to the clutch arm all along? i.e not letting it fully engage?
in past postes we talked about weather I had lubricated the spline, well i looked just now and I had, also im pretty sure i remember taking ETVs advice & removed the clutch arm and i think i put copper grease on it as well, but perhaps when i sent the gearbox off the first time i got a different box back and they didnt lube the release arm. what is the best way to prevent this happening again?

[E_T_V]

Whenever the box is off remove the clutch arm from the box and plaster it in copper grease. That works fine. It is the lack of grease from the factory that causes it to seize.

Just make sure when you put it back it is nicely lubed. Once they are free and lubed they don't usually give issues again.

[nicko500s]

Right just finished refitting the engine and gearbox, I decided on a Quaif LSD which apparently is the same as the one in the focus ST, I chose a 6 paddle clutch from Dark Ice Designs, which is the CG motorsport one, interestingly the pedal is very light, seems lighter than I remember the original clutch to be, anyway so I got it all done and put in in gear and drove forward a little and the clutch pedal was stuck on the floor again, I know the release arm is free as I checked it and its very loose, I pumped the pedal up and down and now and then it gets stuck, more so when I lift it up slowly, what would stop the pedal returning like that?
The clutch resevoir has fluid in it up to and above the bottom of the lid, but im thinking that as the clutch arm was very stiff maybe it has damaged the clutch hydrolics, thats all I can think it can be, is it purely a spring in the pedal box that makes the pedal return?

Any thoughts or ideas greatly appreciated

[E_T_V]

Check the slave bracket isn't broken (get someone to press the pedal whilst you check). Also check where the end of the slave pushes on the arm as I think there is a plastic piece which can break under too much force.

The pedal only returns due to the spring on the pedal/in the master cylinder. If it isn't returning then that would usually mean no/low fluid or air in the system or something is preventing it coming back up. The 45 hydraulics aren't supposed to be bleedable however (silly system!).